Pectin Instead of Corn Starch: So What?

Russell Stover Pectin Jelly Beans

Weirdos like me who just about live on jelly beans (not really – I also eat burritos) know we’re eating something that’s mostly sugar. It’s the other ingredients that set the various beans apart. While that’s usually a matter of flavor, there’s also a school of jelly-bean creation that calls for a slightly different gelling agent: pectin. The jelly in most beans turns from sugary glop into gel because of the addition of corn starch, but a few brands of beans use pectin instead – just like my mom used when making her own jam and jelly.

The easiest brand of pectin-based beans to find is Russell Stover Pectin Jelly Beans (a premium bean, according to the package). The beans are the traditional size and shape; none of that mini business practiced by the gourmet brands. Another difference is that Russ sticks to the traditional flavors. There’s no buttered popcorn, no banana cream pie, just seven fruit flavors like the Brach’s I bought as a kid.

There are differences from those old-style beans, though: for one, the candy shell of a Stover jelly bean is softer than many other brands. This makes it hard to separate from the jelly center. For another, that center is a sticky, almost clear jelly that may (or may not) be flavored the same as the shell. It’s hard to tell

The seven flavors are grape (purple), cherry (red), pineapple (white), lime (green), lemon (yellow), orange (duh), and strawberry (pink). The grape borders on brown, it's so dark, but is quite clearly not licorice. That's just fine with me…

The flavors are reasonably accurate; an improvement on similar-sized beans that come up from Mexico in huge bins. Unfortunately, the pineapple is rather weakly flavored, and no one who’s ever eaten a fresh strawberry would recognize the pink ones for that flavor… They’re not as strongly flavored as a lot of jelly beans, which takes some getting used to. For some unknown reason, a handful or so of these left a weird taste in my mouth, something almost astringent.

I’d expect more for the price: perhaps because of the pectin (more dear than corn starch) and perhaps because of the brand name, the 12-ounce bag was priced at $2.99 at my local Walgreens (discounted 50% after Easter… my favorite day). This puts them at the same point as Gimbal’s and Kroger Private Selection, both of which are definitely superior (even if they do have licorice). Maybe that cute gold-tone twisty adds to the price?

An improvement on typical, mass-produced beans with solid-sugar, unflavored jelly centers; but in the end, Russell Stover Pectin Jelly Beans lose out to the gourmet guys.

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