Saturday, July 16, 2016

I Wunder if Anyone Knows what “Unique” Means Anymore

Brach’s Wunder Beans Jelly Beans


Brach's Wunder Beans Jelly Beans
The packaging claims “Jelly Beans in 24 Unique Flavors” – and now they’re claiming 25 instead. Whichever the count, I’m not so certain that blue berry, cinnamon, grape, lemon… etc. can be considered “unique” flavors today, or even a generation ago for that matter. Interestingly enough, the 25-flavor variety includes such flavors as “wild blueberry,” “hot cinnamon,” “grape lightening [sic]” and “lemonade”; which I rather suspect are simply the more common flavors renamed. Whatever you think of marketing language and the word “unique,” through, the simple truth is that Brach’s Wunder Beans aren’t truly “wunderful.”

I say that because although they emulate the small size of higher-end gourmet beans and incorporate some more esoteric flavors, Brach’s beans are still heavily flavored candy shells around a neutral-flavored whitish gel center. That differs from true gourmet beans, in which the flavor goes all the way through. Sigh.


    As far as those flavors are concerned, most are fairly strong and easily identifiable, but at least a few have a slightly chemical taste. Ferrara (owner of the Brach’s label) does not use HFCS in these beans, but neither do they use any form of fruit for flavoring or sweetening – not juice or powder. All the flavors are “natural and artificial”; and we all know what that means. There's also the obligatory carnuba wax and a slew of artificial colors.

I remain confused about whether there are “24 unique flavors” or “25 wunderful flavors,” as different bag formats seem to be circulating. They’re also available in either a purple bag (what I found) or a white one. So many choices, so little time… My bag has a sell-by date six months out, so I don’t think they’re all that old. I found them in a Giant store at a price of $1.99 for a 7-ounce bag, which almost puts them in “gourmet” territory, pricewise.
Mainly because there are some interesting flavors and all the flavors are recognizable and distinct, I’m calling Brach's Wunder Beans“slightly above average” (3½ stars). They’re definitely a cut above the big beans in peg bags, but they aren’t much better than what you find with a Starburst, Welch’s or Jolly Rancher label on the bag. I’ll keep looking.    
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